Finding Solitude on Jeju’s Trails

Bhavika Choudhary, ’28, is a Computer Science major studying at Korea Advanced Institute of Science and Technology (KAIST) this Fall 2024.

Sitting in my study abroad dorm in Seoul, still nursing slightly sore muscles from last week’s adventure, I can’t help but smile as I reflect on my recent trip to Jeju Island, South Korea’s premier tourist destination known for its volcanic landscapes, pristine beaches, and extensive network of hiking trails. As a study abroad student exploring mainland South Korea, I had planned this five-day getaway thinking it would be the typical tourist experience—capturing Instagram-worthy views, visiting famous landmarks, and perhaps meeting fellow travelers. Instead, it evolved into something far more meaningful: a journey of self-discovery through some of the island’s most beautiful hiking trails.

For those unfamiliar with Jeju, it’s South Korea’s largest island, sitting off the southern coast of the Korean Peninsula. The island is home to South Korea’s highest mountain, Mount Hallasan, and features the Jeju Olle Trail system—a network of 26 interconnected hiking paths that circle the island’s coastline and venture inland. These trails, marked with distinctive blue and orange ribbons, were created to help visitors explore Jeju’s natural beauty and cultural heritage at a walking pace.

My unexpected hiking adventure began on Day 3 of my trip. I had originally planned to visit Jusangjeolli Cliff—a spectacular volcanic rock formation on the southern coast near Seogwipo City. However, after missing my reserved entrance time (a common requirement at popular tourist spots in Korea), I found myself drawn to Jeju Olle Trail 8. This particular trail stretches along the southern coastline, offering stunning views of the ocean and leading to the famous Jungmun Beach, one of Jeju’s most popular tourist destinations.

As I walked along Trail 8, the sea breeze carried the salty scent of the ocean, and the path offered constant views of the dramatic coastline where volcanic cliffs meet the deep blue waters of the Pacific. The trail eventually led me to Jungmun Beach, known for its golden sand and perfect sunset views. As dusk approached, I treated myself to an uniquely Korean experience: sweet garlic bread from Paris Baguette, a bakery chain that’s as common in Korea as Starbucks is in America. It’s worth noting that unlike its Western counterpart, Korean garlic bread often features a sweet twist—a perfect example of how Korea adapts foreign foods to local tastes.

Day 4 brought me to another part of Jeju’s southern region, beginning at Cheonjiyeon Waterfall—one of the island’s three famous waterfalls, whose name poetically means “God’s pond.” After taking in the 22-meter cascade of crystal-clear water, I made my way to the Jeju Olle Tourist Center, which marks both the end of Trail 6 and the beginning of Trail 7. I decided to tackle Trail 6 in reverse, a decision that would lead to one of my most memorable experiences.

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The trail took me through various landscapes, from coastal paths to dense forest areas where the vegetation often obscured the trail markers—blue and orange ribbons that usually guide hikers along the Olle trails. What I hadn’t anticipated was the profound solitude I would encounter. For nearly three miles, I didn’t cross paths with another soul, an unusual experience in a country as densely populated as South Korea. The isolation, combined with my dying phone battery, taught me an important lesson about hiking preparation, especially in a foreign country.

The culmination of my Jeju hiking experience came on Day 5 with the ascent of Mount Hallasan, South Korea’s highest peak at 1,947 meters (6,388 feet). Located in the center of the island, Hallasan is actually a dormant volcano and the centerpiece of Hallasan National Park. This time, I came prepared with proper hiking gear rented from a local outdoor shop and a detailed plan shared with friends and family.

I chose the Gwaneumsa Trail for my ascent—considered the most scenic but challenging of the mountain’s four main trails. The path rewards hikers with views of unique volcanic formations and alpine meadows, though the seemingly endless stairs in the upper section can test even experienced hikers. For the descent, I opted for the longer but gentler Seongpanak Trail, which offered a different perspective of the mountain’s diverse ecosystem.

Weather on Hallasan can be unpredictable, as I learned when afternoon drizzle transformed into a heavy downpour during my descent. Despite having to reserve my hiking slot weeks in advance (a requirement for Hallasan’s summit trails), there was no way to anticipate the weather conditions. The challenging finish in the rain and encroaching darkness made reaching the bottom feel like an even greater achievement.

Looking back on my time in Jeju, I realize that these trails offered more than just exercise or scenic views—they provided a unique window into both the island’s natural beauty and my own capabilities. Each path, whether an Olle trail along the coast or the challenging slopes of Hallasan, told its own story of Jeju’s volcanic origin and cultural heritage.

To my fellow study abroad students, wherever you might be in the world: don’t let your exploration stop at city limits or tourist hotspots. The natural wonders of your host country often hold the most profound experiences and memorable adventures. Whether it’s hiking in South Korea, exploring temples in Japan, or wandering through national parks in Europe, these experiences offer a different perspective on the culture you’re immersing yourself in.

The beauty of being a study abroad student is that you have the time to venture beyond the usual weekend tourist itineraries. You can plan longer trips, like my five-day Jeju adventure, and really immerse yourself in the experience. Sure, hiking trails might not be on the typical study abroad bucket list, but they offer something uniquely valuable: a chance to challenge yourself, find solitude in nature, and connect with your host country in a more profound way.

If you’re currently studying in South Korea or planning to, don’t hesitate to add Jeju’s trails to your must-visit list. The Olle trails, in particular, are well-marked (usually) and offer varying difficulty levels, making them accessible even to novice hikers. Just remember the basics: carry enough water, pack some snacks (yes, even sweet garlic bread), and always let someone know your plans. You might just discover, as I did, that the best experiences often come when you venture off your planned path.

Most importantly, remember that these solo adventures, while challenging, can become the stories you’ll tell for years to come. They’re the moments when you truly test your limits, learn to trust yourself, and create memories that are uniquely yours. After all, isn’t that what studying abroad is all about?

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