Mullae, Seoul’s Art Neighborhood: Seoul Neighborhoods Series

As someone who studies art history and loves spending time in museums and galleries, I knew I had to check out Mullae at least once during my time here. 

Mullae, located in one of Seoul’s industrial districts, is home to dozens of old factories and small metal workshops. The neighborhood fell into decline during a financial crisis, leading artists and musicians to begin moving into the area in search of cheaper rent. Mullae has since become a popular arts destination, filled with art studios, galleries, and eateries tucked in alongside a steel industry that may be struggling, but is still very much alive.  

This past Thursday was a national holiday, so I decided to take advantage of the day off and explore Mullae. 

I took Line 2 from Sinchon Station to Mullae Station and arrived at my first stop, Goat Deli Mullae, for lunch around 12:30pm.

Goat Deli is an old-fashioned delicatessen serving up delicious sandwiches (and pizzas!) using a variety of smoked and cured meats, including jambon and pastrami. 

Since it was peak lunch hour on a national holiday, the place was slammed. I put my name on the waitlist and sat with a book in the second floor waiting area. 

When I was called in, I ordered the “old school pastrami” sandwich and the soup of the day at the counter before finding a nice sunny table by a window in the back of the restaurant.

My sandwich was swoon-worthy, filled with thick slices of meat, whole-grain mustard, fresh pickles, and a generous slather of mayo. I savored it while people-watching and reading a few more pages of my book.  

Leaving the restaurant, I crossed the street and began weaving through Mullae’s back alleys to see what I might find. I refrained from opening Naver and left my headphones in my purse, so I could really get a feel for the neighborhood. 

I stopped in a few shops – the jewelry shops Atraer and Misty Green, to name a few – as I wandered, but mostly I admired the street art and graffiti, which are hard to find elsewhere in Seoul. 

Then, I stumbled upon the 4th Mullae One and Only Art Fair, so I decided to look in a couple of the galleries participating in the event. 

I could have spent so much more time at the fair, taking time to look at each piece and translate the accompanying labels, but I was becoming very dehydrated in the summer heat, so I left in search of something to drink. 

On my way to the cafe I had picked out on Naver, I took a quick pit stop at a vintage store called Moichi Shop, selling an impressive selection of denim and button-downs. 

My need for a beverage won out in the end, and I left the store empty-handed. 

I arrived a few minutes later at Font Mullae Branch, a cafe that took up residence inside a former factory building. I ordered an iced earl grey and sat at a high top under the AC unit.   

 Once I finished my tea, I made my way back to the subway station, stopping for a minute to walk through Mullae Neighborhood Park. 

I know I barely even scratched the surface of Mullae! Knowing myself, I’ll be back next weekend to explore some more. 

If you want to check out a part of Seoul that’s off the beaten path, definitely consider making your way over to this eclectic neighborhood. 

Below, I’ve listed the names and addresses of the spots I mentioned, plus more that I haven’t had the chance to visit yet.

 

Cafes 

Font Mullae Branch

33-4 Mullae-dong 2(i)-ga Yeongdeungpo-gu Seoul

Ipheojeon

57-4 Mullae-dong 2(i)-ga Yeongdeungpo-gu Seoul

Slot Pie (Seullot Pie)

46-8 Mullae-dong 2(i)-ga Yeongdeungpo-gu Seoul

Specialty Studio Mullae Branch 

60-9 Mullae-dong 2(i)-ga Yeongdeungpo-gu Seoul

Museun Club

60-9 Mullae-dong 2(i)-ga Yeongdeungpo-gu Seoul

Rust Bakery (Reoseuteu Bakery)

42-19 Mullae-dong 2(i)-ga Yeongdeungpo-gu Seoul

Cafe Tou Tou 

17-1 Mullae-dong 2(i)-ga Yeongdeungpo-gu Seoul

Restaurants

Goat Deli Mullae

56-2 Mullae-dong 2(i)-ga Yeongdeungpo-gu Seoul

Comma Mallang 

58-45 Mullae-dong 3(sam)-ga Yeongdeungpo-gu Seoul

Ro Ramen  

14-15 Mullae-dong 2(i)-ga Yeongdeungpo-gu Seoul

Shops 

Atraer (Atteullae Reu)

43-13 Mullae-dong 2(i)-ga Yeongdeungpo-gu Seoul

Misty Green

17-1 Mullae-dong 2(i)-ga Yeongdeungpo-gu Seoul

Moichi Shop

56-12 Mullae-dong 2(i)-ga Yeongdeungpo-gu Seoul

Pauline Louise (Pollin Ruijeu Mullae) 

60-9 Mullae-dong 2(i)-ga Yeongdeungpo-gu Seoul

Sights 

Gallery Mullae …street with many galleries where the art fair was held!  

14-98 Mullae-dong 2(i)-ga Yeongdeungpo-gu Seoul

Mullae Neighborhood Park

61 Mullae-dong 3(sam)-ga Yeongdeungpo-gu Seoul